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24 August, 2009
Travel
August 1. Two extremes.

August begins in a Moscow appartment, overlooking the city from the 17th floor. I travel outside of the city today, and feel like Pushkin traveling to the estates of his father and mother. My original plan was to visit Vladimir, but it is too late for that. So instead I buy a ticket to …

august, confidence, Woody Allen
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 31. Seven Trips.

I go out when my couch surfer goes to work and get back home when she is back too. I write in my favorite coffee place, caffeine doesn’t make up for flawed inspiration, then I buy myself a cellphone and call my friend Ann. We meet in front of a shopping mall and I …

Africa Travel, Amazon, Antarctica, Gobi, Kamchatka, Kathmandu, Kenya, Moscow, Nepal, Patagonia, Polynesian, Rio, Seven Trips, Tasmania
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 30. Moscow.

Early arrival in Moscow Kazanskaya station. Walk around that station looking for the internet. O how dependent I have made myself. Don’t swear. Buy a cup of hot water and sit for a moment outside the station building in the drizzling rain, observing three women putting a raincover on a pram. See the long line …

Kazanskaya, Moscow
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 29. This day has been flushed.

Sorry. Couldn’t keep track of this day. It has been flushed.

flushed
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 28. Hitchhiking #3.

Back in Europe. We try to catch a ride to Samara, Kazan, or all the way to Moscow. It has been enough for me. The 23-year old I am hitching with naturally takes the lead and decides what we do without asking me. I like him, but there is something missing. Why do I care? …

donkey, hitchhiking, Ufa
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 27. Hitchhiking #2.

Victor has been robbed. They took 2000 dollar from him, he tells us. Now he is on his way to Novosibirsk and beyond to see his family. He travels with an electric guitar and “on the road” is a nice book if you travel by thumb and I pay for his coffee that is cheap …

hitchhiking, Novosibirsk, Ufa
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 26. Hitchhiking #1.

Morning. I try to make coffee but forget the water. Sorry. Then we say goodbye to Vera, who has been a formidable host. Then we go hitchhiking. Getting out of Novosibirsk takes a while, we take a wrong train, wait for a minibus that takes us to the highway direction Omsk. Some hours we stand …

hitchhiking, Omsk
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 25. Stalked!

A day in Novosibirsk. We hang out in the park, take photographs of this far-out metropole, and I retreat in the travelers café again to write I don’t remember what. As long as what you do is spirited, there are some gods that want you to do it, they say. They? No, alright, I say …

hitchhiking, Novosibirsk, stalked
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 24. “Labouring” in Siberia.

The train rolled in the Novosibirsk railway station at five am Moscow time. It’s three hours later here and the day has definitely started. A short busride takes me to what is designated as the answer to my repeated “centr?” where I hit a coffee place and get organized. I talk to the owner who …

Changeling, Clint Eastwood, Novosibirsk, Siberia
24 August, 2009
Travel
July 23. Irkutsk > Novosibirsk

The train from Irkutsk to Novosibirsk. I watch a movie and still my appetite with instant noodles just like all the other passengers I can see since I can’t look into the first class waggons where caviar feasts and wodka deliria would shorten subjective travel time for upper class Russians. It is nice though …

Edam, Fabergé, Gouda, Irkutsk, Novosibirsk, Science fiction
16 August, 2009
Travel
July 22. Arrival in Irkutsk.

Irkutsk. It’s pitch black when the train arrives. A little confusion because the station clocks use Moscow time. I lie down a couple of hours next to a Belgian group of four that is traveling in the other (more usual) direction towards Vladivostok and by bus to Harping, China. I am surprised my …

Baikal, belladonna, Irkutsk, stroit
10 August, 2009
Travel
July 21. Train stories #3.

Someone pulls my arm and points at the window. Suddenly, it was there: Lake Baikal. Majestic, pristine, a venerable lady hidden somewhere in the center of the Eurasian landmass. It is wonderful, cameras are pulled out including mine, there is an atmosphere of gaiety on the train, people smile. And she never lets her visitors …

Baikal, transsiberian, wodka
10 August, 2009
Travel
July 20. Train stories #2.

The fat singing man in the restaurant waggon. I don’t know if I can describe him, but I want to try. I am looking for some variation on the theme of being on the train, and hence start walking up and down the mighty machine. I reach the last waggon on one end and take …

Louis Armstrong, Mendelssohn, restauration, transsiberian
10 August, 2009
Travel
July 19. Train stories #1.

I feel comfortable on the train, playing in my head with reminiscences of my earlier Russian trainrides. The platzkart, the hot water tap, the linen, the short conversations in broken Russian, the angry looking young men, the smiling women – it is all the same here in the far east. The train rolls through endless …

coffee, Harrelson, Kingsley, pimply girl, transsiberian
10 August, 2009
Travel
July 18.

Vladivostok. The romantic feeling of being in a faraway place, even though it has been all too easy to get here. Getting off the ferry takes a while, and I sit in the corner brushing up my Russian with a set of notes I took in november, the last time I was in Russia. Passport …

transsiberian, Vladivostok
8 August, 2009
Travel
July 18.
3 August, 2009
Travel
July 17. The ferry to Vladivostok.

An early morning-goodbye to my friends in Korea. I hop on the bus to Sokcho, get into the terminal and go to the usual cycles of waiting. Once I’m admitted to the rusty vessel (you should have seen the cardeck) I’m so tired that I crash my berth right away. The berth: they just …

ferry, mp3, Vladivostok
3 August, 2009
Travel
July 16. The Cave from my dream.

I am supposed to take the ferry to Vladivostok today, but “due to natural disaster” it has been postponed. I receive the email from the friendly Dongchun ferry employee on time, and I’m happy about it. Now I can go hiking Soraksan with Malia and Andrea. I wonder what the “natural disaster” would have …

cave, dream, Soraksan
3 August, 2009
Travel
July 15. South Korea, West to East.

We take the bus to Sokcho today. We tried to do the same thing yesterday but it didn’t work out. This time we make it to the terminal on time and find the correct bus. It’s a comfortable way of traveling, though dangerously air-conditioned. We cross the country in about four hours and arrive …

hiking, Korea, Sokcho
2 August, 2009
Travel
July 14.

What is friendship? This entry will take us to the height of theoretical considerations, to a summit where icy winds blow large snowflakes against our reasoning skin, where big halcyonic birds spread their giant wings to cast a mighty shadow upon our theories, where you can look to all directions without seeing anything. Who knows …

fire, friendship 1 Comment
1 August, 2009
Travel
July 14.
30 July, 2009
Travel
July 13.

Yog-hu-ru-tu, Yog-hu-ru-tu, the woman shouts. Yog-hu-ru-tu, where are you? I am watching a children’s theater play with joy. The title is “Looking for Yoghurt” and Yoghurt is actually a cat. Yeon, the set designer, is my couchsurfing host. The set is colorful and simple. I like the lighting effects assisting pantomime play on stage, and …

children's theater, Yoghurt
30 July, 2009
Travel
July 12. The human predicament.

This day is intentionally left out. Writing this some weeks later, I can hardly remember what I did. I guess I hung out with my new friends in Seoul. Played pool on the 28th floor of an apartment building overlooking greater Seoul and the surrounding mountains we hiked a few days ago. Watching movies and …

human predicament, love, pool table, Seoul
30 July, 2009
Travel
July 11. Wet eyes and all.

A bit ill. I spend the night and the better half of the day in the jimjilbang. Try to do some writing from 4:30 in the afternoon. Before that, I’ve seen a father going to the jimjilbang with his sun and I cried when he carefully helped the child into the water. Cried! I mean, …

cry, ill, jimjilbang 1 Comment

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