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10 May, 2009
May 3. Visiting a Cathedral.

Cali didn’t quite seem the place to be. A giant terminal from which I could look over a foggy modern city. Walked around a bit, found out the ATM didn’t work and decided to go to Manizales, the capital of the central coffee growing region. A good cup of coffee is what I neee. That …

Cathedral, critic, Manizales 1 Comment
10 May, 2009
May 2. The excitement has gone.

We take a bus to Tulcan near the Colombian border. The cemetery here is famous and for good reasons. They have a Christ on the cross cut in the hedge. I really like that Christ cut in the hedge, he looks so friendly. And a lot of animals too. We walk around that cemetery and …

Cali, pig's head, Tulcan
10 May, 2009
April 30. Quito.

The bus takes me straight to Quito where I contact my couchsurfing host. She agrees upon me bringing a Norwegian girl that wants to try the thing out. That Norwegian girl didn’t fall from the sky; I met her in the bus to Quito her name is Anne. She has been working with young children …

Quito
10 May, 2009
Travel
May 1. Full being.

We say goodbye to Anne, who goes to the Galapagos with her sister, and take a taxi to the place where the bus to Ibarra leaves. Transportation issues, as usual. I think it was on the bus that I see some old guy peeing in a chopped-off plastic bottle and then pouring it out of …

full being, Ibarra, Quito
10 May, 2009
Travel
April 29. An act of conscience.

It is light and I drive alongside the Pacific coast. Am I dreaming? The road is not bad, I see palm trees and traditional huts, fisherboats, and a lot of people playing around with their motorscooters. The road goes all the way up from Lima to Cumbles near the Ecuadorian border. I had been on …

conscience, Cumbles, Ipiales
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 28. About long busrides.

The busride from Lima to the Ecuadorian border is very long.
I get up early and say goodbye to the friendly people at my hostel. “Goodbye!” or rather, I told them “Adios!” because, of course, they speak Spanish here. What follows is a long ride through the city of Lima, ending in a bus terminal
…

Bob Dylan, busride, Cumbles, Lima
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 27. The only one that uses real bodies.

Woke up late. Bought a nutritious breakfast in a supermarket and walked around the center of Lima. Most of the streets were in reconstruction; smog and dust everywhere. One interesting thing about this city is that workshops of certain professions are located in the same area. I live in the printing press area were professional …

horror, Lima, Miraflores, phobia
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 26. Oil painting in Lima.

In the late afternoon our bus arrives in Lima, Peru’s busy capital and center of Spanish colonial influence. This is the Rome of South America; there are churches everywhere. A taxi takes us away from the bus terminal and at their hostel I say goodbye to Candy and Alexandra. This city should be extremely dangerous, …

Lima, Oil painting
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 25. Hypocrisy and Santiago Mataindios.

Up 10am. Check out. Breakfast: real espresso I showed the girl from the hostel how to make it and a sandwich with a fried egg. Read bilingual Gideon bible I found in the hostel to improve my Spanish and have a glance at Jesus’ words once again. After all, they are the weightiest words in …

Cusco, Hypocrisy, Incas, Lima, Mataindios, Qoricancha, Quechua, Tambomachay 1 Comment
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 24. Cusco Sewing.

Cusco. Arrived here at six in the morning, went to a hostel with a German woman called Alexandra. We had breakfast in the central Mercado, coffee and an egg sandwich. Bought our busticket to Lima, walked around the Plaza de Armas until about nine.
After that I lied down for a couple of hours to
…

Cusco, Machu Picchu, sew
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 23. Lake Titicaca.

The legs are okay again. I can move on today. I want to describe the begging women in the bus station. Her dark skin, how she crouches and moves her hand up and down to indicate what she’s after: a few Bolivianos. The colorfully woven pouch on her back, the noises she makes, her small …

Arequipa, Copacabana, Isla del Sol, La Paz, Puno, Titicaca
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 22. La Paz.

La Paz. It is cold indeed and the bus driver halts for me so I can take my jacket out of the luggage compartment. The old orange one that has served in Russia earlier on the road. The arrival in La Paz is spectacular and comfortable. A modern bus terminal right in the center, plenty …

La Paz, lonely planet, pain, religion
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 21. The road ahead.

Today, we copy the photos of the Paraba Azul to a cd at Alberto’s place. He offers us lunch and has some story about the integration of foreigners into the community, which can be hard at times. After this it’s time to say goodbye to Buenavista. I leave with dear memories of the people here …

Buenavista, paraba azul, photos, road ahead
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 20. Lazy day.

Lazy day, I skip the excursion to Cafetal where the nine-step process of coffee production is explained. Washing the beans, sorting them, peeling them, sorting the big ones out for richer coffees, fermenting, drying, roasting, grinding. It’s an interesting science. So, if you’re in the area, put Cafetal on your list.

I meet Alberto …

Buenavista, cafetal, power, writer 1 Comment
9 May, 2009
Travel
April 19. Theater.

Sunday, lazy sunday. Sometimes, you have to turn the hide of your experiences inside out in order to aerate it. In the process, you can study the pigments that have been formed over the years by the exposure to the world. Red spots, shiny freckles, tiny oily canals of capillaries carrying heavy blood to wide …

experience, Jerry, Snoopy, Theater, Theatre, Tom
28 April, 2009
Travel
April 18. Locro, Picante, and Llajua.

If you have the feeling that you cannot do anything right, that you are doomed to mediocracy in whatever you undertake, stop worrying about it. Just think about the hour of your death: you will be perfect at it. You will look to your left, you will look to your right, and bam! you will …

Boliviano, Llajua, Locro, mediocracy, Picante 1 Comment
28 April, 2009
Travel
April 16. Buenavista Coffee.

Buenavista coffee beans, dried on the groundDays begin with a cup of Buenavista coffee in a small tienda artesenal and some empanadas to bite on. I look for a place in the shade and write. Today, I work on my novel again, after many weeks. I’m a bit worried I can’t repair the narrative anymore …

Buenavista, coffee, dream, mosquitos
28 April, 2009
Travel
April 17. Tuqui.

A photosession with the local toucan called Tuqui, the most fascinating resident of a house facing the Plaza Principal of Buenavista. He was hiding in the garden, but after some searching we found him sitting on a branch of a cacao tree. He gave kisses with his big yellow beak that is really not so …

camera, kitten, orchestra, Toucan
28 April, 2009
Travel
April 15. You may skip this.

Wrote. Just more words. If you want to read them, they are all in your dictionary, only their order is less contaminated there. Walked around in the village to investigate the people of Bolivia. Entered a pharmacy to ask what medicine costs here. She started to tell, aspirin is four tablets for one Boliviano, and …

Boliviano, McDonald's, Santa Cruz
24 April, 2009
Travel
April 14. Just another day.

I decide to return and stay some more days in Buenavista. I can work there well, and La Paz can wait. A taxi takes me back to the village and the kind people of the restaurant Paraba Azul. They have offered me a place to stay. I can write in a house again, get some …

Buenavista, computers
23 April, 2009
Travel
April 13. Village life.

I wake up and I think it’s late but it’s not. It’s only 9:30. I pay the old lady and go. Carolina will show me a traditional village, where ecotourism has become the main source of income. I am shown cocoa trees, and taste the sweet pulp. I chew a seed too but it doesn’t …

Buenavista, Camilo, village
23 April, 2009
Travel
April 12. Some words about “moral”

Remember yesterday? That I dressed up a bump from head to toe? And proudly presented it to you? Today it’s time for a little moralist sneer. Why do you have to tell this kind of stories, to proof you’re good? Do you want the reader to admire you for it, do you want to tell …

Buenavista, butterfly, Montero, Morales, moto, Santa Cruz
23 April, 2009
Travel
April 11. But he didn’t use the soap.

Today, I wake up in a nice bed in a pension in Santa Cruz de Bolivia. This is Bolivia’s boomtown, strongest growth of them all. Towns that used to be rich in colonial times are very poor now and vice versa. On the roof are my clothes and I think the morning sun already dried …

bump, chess, Santa Cruz, soap
23 April, 2009
Travel
April 10. Adieu to necklace “small luck”

Good morning. I hate to tell you this. I am a narcissist: I think there always has to be – me. I am looking for a cure. If you can suggest one, I’m open to everything non-narcotical. What I could try, metaphorically, is taking a sharp cutter and hollow out the eyes of the soft-skinned …

Bolivia, Morales, narcissist, Santa Cruz, small luck

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